A
Active Ingredients
Chemical compounds found in medicines and skin care products that have an effect in and on the body.
Adenosine
An organic compound – one of four – that is essential to life. When applied topically, it aids the production of collagen and elastin to improve the physical appearance of skin.
Allantoin
Used in skin care to reduce irritation and sensitivity, Allantoin has potent healing and soothing properties and is extracted from plants such as beets and chamomile.
Age Spots
Often referred to as freckles, sunspot or liver spots, age spots are typically flat brown stain that appear on the surface of the skin. They are most commonly caused by sun exposure and are often found on the face, hands, neck, and arms.
Ageing
The process of growing old.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)
A chemical compound used to exfoliate and remove the top layer of dry, dull skin, revealing the fresh, bright, smooth layer underneath.
Amino Acids
Help to promote cellular skin repair, protect against sun damage, retain water in the skin and assist with wound healing.
Anti-Ageing
A product or technique designed to prevent the appearance of getting older.
Anthocyanins
Red, blue, and violet plant pigments that are believed to be a natural sun protectant, as well as having antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Studies suggest that anthocyanins have the potential to protect the skin from UV damage.
Antioxidants
Molecules that protect cells against damage caused by Free Radicals.
Foods high in antioxidants include,
- Dark chocolate
- Pecans
- Blueberries
- Strawberries
- Artichokes
- Goji Berries
- Raspberries
- Kale
- Beans
- Beets
- Spinach
Arginine
An Amino Acid that helps the body build protein and collagen to combat fines lines and wrinkles.
Ascorbic Acid
Often recommended by dermatologists, Ascorbic Acid helps improve the skin’s radiance and texture, while diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Avobenzone
A common ingredient in broad-spectrum chemical sunscreen that protects the skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays, which cause premature aging.
Ayurvedic
The word “ayurveda” is Sanskrit, meaning knowledge of life and longevity.
An holistic approach that treats the skin as a reflection of the whole body and the whole person.
B
BB Cream
BB refers to “Beauty Balm” or “Blemish Balm”, a supercharged foundation used to moisturise, protect, and correct your skin.
Beta-Hydroxy Acid (BHA)
An organic compound that specifically refers to Salicylic Acid, which is primarily used in anti-aging and acne treatments. It is oil-soluble making it effective for unclogging pores (via exfoliation) and regulating excess sebum production.
Botox
A trademarked name for a form of botulinum toxin used in injections to target facial wrinkles. Botox paralyses facial muscles to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Brightening
A term for products that reduce skin redness and improve uneven pigmentation.
Broad Spectrum Sunscreen
A term for sunscreens that defend against both UVA (ageing) and UVB (burning) radiation.
Broken Capillaries
Tiny blood vessels that appear on the surface of the skin. The main causes are ageing, sun exposure, alcohol consumption, and skin trauma such as exposure to extreme temperatures (hot or cold).
C
Cannabidiol (CBD)
A naturally occurring chemical in the Cannabis sativa plant (aka marijuana), CBD is effective for combating skin aging. Available in serums, balms, lotions, and oils, CBD is a powerful antioxidant that supports healthy skin.
CC Cream
CC refers to “Colour Correcting” and helps eliminate the appearance of hyperpigmentation and skin discolouration. Unlike BB Creams, CC Creams offer full foundation-like coverage with the added benefits of hydrating anti-ageing properties and sun protection.
Cell Communication
The way in which proteins send signals to the body’s immune system to “tell” cells to act like healthy cells.
As we age, these signals become less effective and contribute to a decline in tissue health.
Cellulite
Affecting up to 90% of women, cellulite occurs as fat cells increase and push up again the skin, resulting in dimpled flesh often on the thighs, hips, buttock, abdomen, and arms.
Ceramides
Natural oils found within the skin that are essential to maintaining hydration.
Chebula
An Ayurvedic plant extract native to South Asia, that helps address signs of ageing. Used for centuries, and known as the “King of Herbs,” Chebula is used to reverse sun damage, hydrate the skin from beneath the dermal layer, fight Free Radicals and assist hair and nail health.
Coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone)
An antioxidant found in every cell of the human body. As we age, CoQ10 production slows, and impacts the appearance of our skin.
The primary benefits of Coenzyme Q10 are reduces damage caused by the sun, improves skin hydration and evens skin tone.
Chemical Peel
A skin-resurfacing treatment used to improve the texture of skin.
Chemical Peels treat wrinkles, skin discoloration, and scars by removing the top layers of skin.
Clean Beauty
Cosmetics and skincare that use sustainably sourced ingredients in recyclable or biodegradable packaging.
Ingredients considered toxic such as parabens, sulphates, and phthalates are excluded.
Collagen
A protein found in connective tissue to provide structural support for our cells.
As we age, collagen production decreases and leads to the characteristic signs of ageing such as wrinkles, dry and sagging skin, and loss of elasticity.
Combination Skin
Characteristics include,
- Oily T-Zone or I-Zone
- Dry around your cheeks
- Occasional breakouts
- Larger than normal size pores around the nose
Complexion
Refers to the natural colour, texture, and appearance of a person’s skin, particularly on the face.
Copper Peptides
An antioxidant that improves skin firmness and smoothness, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, and promotes the production of collagen and elastin.
D
Dermatologist
A doctor that specializes in skin and scalp conditions.
Derma Roller
A small skin roller that has multiple tiny needles to create micro-lesions in the skin in a process called microneedling. This triggers a wound-healing response in the skin and promotes collagen production.
Dermaplaning
Also called microplanning or blading, dermaplaning is a skin treatment that uses an exfoliating blade to skim off dead skin and hairs from the skin surface.
Dermis
The thickest and deepest layer of the skin underlying the epidermis. This is where blood vessels, nerve endings, sweat glands, sebaceous glands, fat cells, hair follicles and muscles are located.
Dermatologically Tested
Assesses a product’s potential to cause irritation and allergic reactions on the skin.
For a product to be dermatologically tested, there is a process involved called repeat-insult patch testing, and it’s conducted on human volunteers.
Double Cleanse
A method of cleansing your face twice. The first cleanse uses an oil-based product to remove waterproof makeup and sunscreen.
The second cleanse uses a water-based cleanser to breakdown makeup, sebum, and any remaining residue.
Dry Brushing
The process of exfoliating dead skin cells on the body using a firm brush with natural bristles.
The technique originates from 5000-year-old Ayurvedic medicine, a popular treatment that improves circulation, reduces the appearance of cellulite, reduces swelling, and relieves tension.
Dry Skin
Characteristics include,
- Feels very tight
- Noticeably flaky in areas
- Visible surface wrinkles and fine lines caused by lack of hydration
- Can look rough and bumpy
- Rarely gets oily
E
Elastin
A stretchy protein found naturally in our body, elastins are responsible for the skin’s elasticity and ability to ‘bounce back.’
Ageing interrupts the elastic fibre network, and negatively impacts our ability to produce collagen and hyaluronic acid. This results in slower wound healing and a loss of structural integrity in our skin.
Emollient
Any ingredient that increases water levels in the epidermis.
Emulsifier
An ingredient that binds oil and water-based ingredients together in skincare products.
Enzymes
Enzymes in skincare work by removing the dead skin cells from the epidermis, the uppermost layer of the skin.
These enzymes break down the protein bonds between dead skin cells and the epidermis. The dead skin cells are removed and healthy skin surfaces.
Epidermis
The thin uppermost layer of skin that sits atop the thicker and deeper dermis layer.
Exfoliation
The process of removing dead skin cells from the Epidermis to reveal healthier, newer skin underneath.
F
Face Rolling
A lymphatic massage performed on the face using face rollers made of precious stone materials such as jade, rose quartz, and amethyst.
Benefits include enhanced blood circulation, reducing puffiness, and improving the look of fine lines.
Face Yoga
A series of repetitive facial exercises to stimulate facial muscles, which tightens the skin and reduces signs of aging.
Fine Lines
One of the earliest signs of aging, fine lines are less than 2 milometers deep and can develop over time into deeper folds and wrinkles.
Freckles
Small brown spots that are caused by an overproduction of melanin, typically in areas of the skin with the most sun exposure.
Freckles can also be hereditary.
Free Radicals
Highly unstable molecules created in the body by sunlight, cigarette smoke, and pollution that latch onto and damage healthy cells.
Free radicals reduce the skin’s natural rejuvenating abilities, leading to roughness, sagging, and wrinkling. Antioxidants protect against free-radical activity by reinforcing the skin’s defences.
G
Glycolic Acid
A type of Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) derived from cane sugar that works to renew the skin surface.
It has the smallest molecules of any AHA, which allows it to penetrate the skin most easily.
Glycolic Peel
Also known as fruit peel, the glycolic acid peel is the most common AHA peel with zero downtime involved.
The peel works to exfoliate the outermost dead layer of skin to diminish fine lines and promote a youthful glow.
Growth Factors
Growth factors are large proteins that are vital to healing and survival.
They are used in skin care to help repair and rejuvenate the skin, to fight off damage from pollution and boost elastic fibres.
Gua Sha
A natural alternative facial therapy designed to relieve muscle tension, boost blood circulation, and promote lymphatic drainage using a handheld scraping tool.
H
Hyaluronic Acid
A substance found within the eyes and joins to act as a natural cushion and lubricant.
It is used in skin care products to increase moisture levels within the skin and help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Hydrolysed Collagen
Collagen proteins that have been broken down into smaller peptides to make for easier absorption into the bloodstream.
They are typically found in beauty supplements and drinks that aim to plump and hydrate skin.
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
A wrinkle-fighting form of Vitamin A known to be less irritating and more stable than traditional retinol. It is most commonly known as Granactive Retinoid.
Hypoallergenic
A term used for products that are less likely to cause an allergic reaction.
Humectants
A hydrating agent found in skin care products that attracts and binds with water molecules to help skin retain moisture.
Hydroquinone
A chemical commonly used for hyperpigmentation conditions such as melasma, freckles, or lentigines. Hydroquinone is available without a prescription in strengths up to 2%, and 4% and prescription formulas.
Hyperpigmentation
Dark spots on the surface of the skin, also known as age spots, sun spots or liver spots.
I
Intense Pulse Light (IPL)
A machine that emits various wavelengths of lights to remove hair, acne, dark spots, wrinkles, and spider veins. The treatment consists of short pulses of light sent through an applicator that is gently pressed against the skin.
K
K-Beauty
A popular category of skincare products, beauty rituals, and trends from South Korea.
Keratin
A fibrous structural protein that is found in hair, the outer layer of skin, and nails.
Keratin fortifies the outermost layer of skin, smooths, and strengthens hair, and nourishes nails.
L
Light Emitting Diode (LED)
A form of non-invasive light therapy that treats various skin conditions such as redness, acne, and wrinkles, by stimulating the production of new collagen. Different wavelengths of light target different skin issues.
Yellow LED Therapy promotes wound healing, collagen production and skin rejuvenation and hydration.
Blue LED Therapy treats acne by eliminating bacteria and reducing inflammation.
Linoleic Acid (Vitamin F)
Linoleic Acid (Vitamin F) is an essential fatty acid found in rosehip, sunflower, olive, and flaxseed oils.
Research shows it is an effective antioxidant for softer, smoother, clearer skin.
M
Mandelic Acid
Mandelic Acid is part of the AHA family and is derived from bitter almonds.
Used to treat acne, dark spots, and dullness, it is an effective alternative if you struggle to use stronger acids like Glycolic and Salicylic.
Melanin
A natural substance in your body that produces hair, eye, and skin pigmentation. The more melanin you produce, the darker your eyes, hair and skin will be.
Melanoma
A disease in which malignant cancer cells form in melanocytes (cells that colour the skin). While the cure rate is high when caught early, unchecked cases can spread quickly to other organs in the body.
Melasma
A skin condition that causes patches and spots, usually on the face, which are darker than your natural skin tone.
Micellar Water
Micellar Water is infused with tiny particles called “micelles” that soak up dirt, oil, and makeup like a sponge.
Microdermabrasion
A minimally invasive skin treatment that buffs away the outermost layer of the skin to create a smoother and younger appearance.
Mirconeedling
A cosmetic procedure used to encourage collagen production by pricking the skin with multiple tiny, sterilised needles, to create controlled micro-injuries to the skin.
Moisturiser
A skincare staple to combat skin dryness and replenishes hydration.
Moisturisers are usually emulsions of water, oil, and essential ingredients for various purposes such as anti-aging or protecting your skin from UV radiation.
N
Nanotechnology
A particle that acts as a vehicle to assist product ingredients with increased penetration, leading to greater efficacy of the product.
Niacinamide
A form of B3 that strengthens the skin’s outer layers, improves skin elasticity, and prevents redness and irritation.
Non comedogenic
A term used for products that have been tested to not block or clog pores.
Normal Skin
An ideal skin type with zero to few skin imperfections, no severe sensitivity, and barely visible pores. When choosing skincare products, normal skin types should focus more on protection from environmental stressors such as UV damage.
O
Omega- 3 Fatty Acids
Omega-3 fatty acids are essential nutrients found in certain foods. They serve to regulate the skin’s oil production, improve balanced hydration, subdue breakouts, and minimise the signs of aging.
Oxybenzone
An organic compound used in sunscreens for its ability to absorb UV-A sun rays.
P
Patch Test
An allergy test performed on a patch of skin to ensure the user isn’t sensitive to a product.
The Patch Test is typically performed on the arm or back 24 hours prior to use.
Parabens
Synthetic chemicals used as preservatives in cosmetic products to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and mould.
Peeling
The skin’s natural healing process when recovering from some type of damage including sun burn, allergies, infections, or certain diseases.
Peptides
Small chains of amino acids that comprise the building blocks of certain proteins essential to the skin.
Peptides work by boosting the skin with collagen, elastin, and keratin.
pH Factor
A measurement term used to describe the level of acidity or alkalinity of an ingredient, product, or the skin itself.
Photoaging
Signs of aging caused by exposure to the sun’s UVA rays, which penetrate deep into the dermis and cause irreversible damage to collagen fibres. Symptoms include skin sagging, wrinkles, and sunspots.
Plant Extracts
Plant extracts nourish the skin from deep within the dermis and provide benefits such as being anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antifungal, which help sufferers of acne, psoriasis, and rosacea.
Plant Stem Cells
Provide a high concentration of antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties, which helps defend against sun damage and aging.
Probiotics
Beneficial live bacteria and yeasts that naturally occur in the body. These ‘good’ bacteria help to eliminate an excess of bad bacteria, returning to a healthy balance.
Probiotics can be ingested through fermented foods and supplements or applied topically to improve skin health.
Q
Quercetin
With both antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, Quercetin is a skincare ingredient that fights and neutralises free radicals (the main cause of ageing), as well as protecting skin from damaging sun rays.
R
Retinol
A derivative of Vitamin A, used in skincare products to fight wrinkles, encourage collagen production, and stimulate the turnover of skin cells.
Retinoids
Retinoids reduce fine lines and wrinkles by increasing the production of collagen. They also stimulate the production of new blood vessels in the skin, which improves skin colour.
Rosacea
A chronic skin with symptoms including persistent redness, easy flushing, broken blood vessels, and pimples that appear primarily on the nose and cheeks.
While there is no known cure, it is important to control triggers such as heat and alcohol.
S
Salicylic Acid (BHA)
A BHA that helps stimulate cell turnover revealing smoother, healthier looking skin. This is done by exfoliation, which unclogs pores and removes dead skin cells.
Sebum
An oily substance secreted by sebaceous glands to moisturize, coat, and protect skin.
Sheet Masks
Face-shaped masks soaked with beneficial ingredients such as vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, and Hyaluronic Acid that penetrate deep into the skin.
Skin Cycling
A night-time skincare routine that involves using active ingredients on specific days, followed by ‘rest’ days.
The aim is to adopt a four-day cycle that includes using active ingredients for two nights, followed by two rest nights, then repeat.
Sonic Cleansing
An effect method for removing makeup, dirt, and oil lodged in the skin using an electronic brush with soft, oscillating bristles.
SPF
An acronym for Sun Protectant Factor, ranging from the lowest SPF 2 to the highest SPF 50 in protective strength against UVB radiation.
Squalene
A moisturiser that occurs naturally in the skin but diminishes with age. Squalene is rich in fatty acids and antioxidants, and is derived from olives, rice brand, and sugarcane.
Sunscreen
Skincare products with ingredients that absorb, rather than block, UVA and UVB radiation.
For the best protection, find a sunscreen labelled broad-spectrum.
T
Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA)
The key ingredient in chemical peels used for treating acne scars, sun damage, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation.
TCA peels promote shedding of the outermost layer of dead skin cells to allow new cells to rise to the surface.
Titanium Dioxide
A natural mineral used as a physical sunscreen to protect against both UVA and UVB, giving it the broad-spectrum label.
Toner
Applied after cleansing, liquid toners balance the skin’s pH levels, removes excess dirt and oils, and help subsequent skincare products penetrate the skin with more efficacy.
T-Zone
The area of the face that includes the forehead, nose, chin, and sometimes the neck.
U
UVA / UVB
The two types of ultraviolet rays that reach the earth’s surface.
While both are responsible for skin damage, UVA is known to penetrate deeper into the skin causing long-term damage, such as wrinkles.
Both cause skin cancer.
U-Zone
The area of the face that includes the temples, cheeks, and chin.
While the T-zone is associated with high sebum secretion, the U-zone is considered the opposite with low sebum in combination skin.
V
Vampire Facial
A skin treatment that uses the patient’s own blood to trick the body into triggering a wound-healing response.
Blood is extracted and placed in a centrifuge, after which it is injected into or applied topically on the patient’s skin to promote cell renewal.
Vitamin A
Vitamin A products benefit the skin by normalising skin functions.
These include, but are not limited to,
- Regulating blood flow and taking nutrients and oxygen to the cells
- Helps reduce the symptoms of Rosacea
- Improves hydration
- Decreases sebum production
- Exfoliates the skin making it smooth and even-toned
Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)
Vitamin B3 interacts with several different skin cell types, helping improve the skin’s ability to produce collagen, resulting in visibly fuller skin with fewer fine lines and wrinkles.
Vitamin C
A water-soluble vitamin with a wealth of antioxidant benefits, including,
- Increased skin hydration
- Combating hyperpigmentation
- Soothing sunburn
- Promoting wound healing
- Reducing the appearance of under-eye circles
- Diminishing the appearance of redness
Vitamin E
Vitamin E is one of the most potent antioxidants (often labelled Tocopheryl Acetate in cosmetic products) and is proven to shield skin against the sun’s dangerous rays.
Vitamin E penetrates through the skin to the living cells beneath and promotes self-healing in sun-damaged skin.
Vitamin E also strengthens the skin’s barrier function, preventing water loss.
Vitamin K
Part of a group of vitamins that are primarily used to help heal wounds, Vitamin K is needed in the body for blood clotting.
In skincare, it is used to reduce visible redness and combat dark circles under the eyes.
W
Witch Hazel
A plant used to make medicine and proven to have soothing and anti-inflammation benefits, while minimising visible pores and reducing excess oils on the skin.
Wrinkles
A fold, crease, or ridge that appears as a result of the natural aging process, sun damage, smoking, and habitual facial movements.
Z
Zinc Oxide
Considered the best and safest sunscreen ingredient, Zinc Oxide blocks both UVA and UVB rays for broad spectrum protection. It is also photostable and resistant to water.